Biedermeier 1815-1848
The Biedermeier era discovered nature after the cool severity of classicism.
Contrasting, free forms enliven the designs of the time and friendship and souvenir jewelry in particular achieved widespread popularity.
After the Napoleonic War in 1815, precious metals were scarce, so materials such as tombac, horn, hair and coral were used with great skill.
The goldsmiths developed jewelry with so-called foam gold. With foam gold, goldsmiths were able to save material by making brooches, necklaces and bracelets from thin sheet gold and then filling them with plaster or resin to give the pieces the necessary stability and weight.
The Biedermeier period can be classified in cultural history between the Congress of Vienna in 1815 and the bourgeois revolution in 1848.
As a countermovement to the victory over Napoleon, a new interest in their own history and local traditions arose in the independent countries. This can also be observed in jewelry.
The strict, prevailing classicism is relaxed and local nature, such as oak leaves or roses, is included and reproduced in the design.
Materials from the homeland are also preferred, such as Bohemian garnet as the preferred stone of the middle class in Austria and other German-speaking countries.
Coral jewelry is also enjoying unprecedented popularity in Italy. In Great Britain, for example, there is a fashion with turquoise stones from their own colonies.
You retreat into your private sphere, the immediate surroundings are the focus of the Biedermeier period.
Historicism 1840-1890
In the years before 1850 there was a dominant style in decorative arts, the design and forms of which changed only slowly.
In the years that followed, up until the turn of the century around 1900, the change in fashions increased suddenly.
In order to provide new designs, every previous era in art history was used as a model.
This resulted in new works of art with stylistic elements from antiquity to rococo.
People experienced unprecedented change in the second half of the 19th century.
The economy and science accelerated extremely quickly thanks to new discoveries, means of transport and communication, and shattered the usual certainties about the way the world ran.
Looking back over the past years meant security. In addition, industrialization, the railway and the telegraph increased speed.
The first pieces of jewelry in medieval shapes were already created in the Biedemeier era, accompanied by the rediscovery of the Gothic style.
Jewels in Neo-Renaissance styles followed as an expression of civic pride oriented towards the Italian city republics.
As a result, this triggered mass production of Renaissance forms.
In Italy, goldsmiths created jewelry with neo-Etruscan shapes, such as antique cameos or earrings.
Jewelry with baroque and rococo elements also quickly became a sales success.
They revived the courtly splendor of the past 18th century.
At the end of the century, jewelry in the Baroque and Rococo styles followed, which revived the courtly splendor of the previous 18th century.
Historicism offers a rich variety of forms and details and is probably the history-loving era between tradition and modernity.
Victorian era 1837-1901
The Victorian style is the collective name for the historicizing style tendencies during the reign of the English Queen Victoria from 1837-1901 and is comparable to German historicism or the founding style.
Queen Victoria of England, who gave the style its name, ruled the country for over 60 years and had a significant influence on an entire era.
This period also marked Great Britain's economic rise to become the leading economic and world power at the end of the 19th century.
During the Victorian Era, trade and industry, as well as arts and literature, flourished.
The “Victorian Era” style describes English jewelry as cheerful, imaginative and typically British.
Queen Victoria was very emotional, which is why Victorian jewelry from Great Britain, in addition to the always high-quality workmanship of manufactured goods, is often characterized by romantic and very decorative ornamented shapes and motifs.
Her fairytale romance and a magnificent royal wedding in 1840 to Prince Albert were particularly beneficial for English jewelry production.
The goldsmiths' own designs continued to gain in independence in the second half of the 19th century.
Beautiful engravings decorate medallions and bracelets, often in heart shapes. A great fondness for enamel developed, so numerous brooches, necklaces and rings in flower and leaf shapes were covered with it.
From 1876, Queen Victoria also bore the title “Empress of India”. From this point on, the door was open for the British Empire to bring precious gemstones from the Indian subcontinent to England via trade routes.
Sapphires, emeralds, rubies, turquoise and even large diamonds came to England by sea. Once on the island, the precious gemstones were eagerly processed into wonderful pieces of jewelry by goldsmiths in London and other major cities in England.
Finally, rich yellow gold remains in use in England longer than in mainland Europe.
At the turn of the century, Art Nouveau designs were very popular.
Delicate gemstones and pearls in radiant yellow gold were still being manufactured long after 1900.
Around 1880 a new trend emerged exclusively in Great Britain:
“Novelty Jewellery”. Brooches with cheerful animal motifs such as bees, flies, butterflies, swallows, owls or even automotive and sports motifs such as golf clubs etc. were made as pieces of jewelry and met with great enthusiasm in Great Britain.
Then as now, Victorian jewelry, which shaped an entire era, was very popular.
Belle Epoque 1871-1914
The Belle Epoque was a period of peace and prosperity in Europe that lasted from around 1871 until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. During this time, jewelry making experienced a heyday characterized by elegance and opulence. Jewelry was often decorated with gemstones, diamonds, and pearls and was made from materials such as gold and platinum.
However, in the late 19th century and early 20th century, a new art movement emerged - Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau was a reaction to the strict geometry and lack of ornament of the Victorian era and was inspired by nature. Art Nouveau jewelry was characterized by organic shapes, curved lines and floral motifs. The materials were often opal, pearls and enamel, and the technique of jewelry making was often done by hand.
During the Belle Epoque, designs tended to be symmetrical and stylized, with floral motifs and opulent diamonds and gemstones. Jewelry was often heavy and exaggerated and was worn by a wealthy elite. Art Nouveau, on the other hand, was an art form for the people and the jewelry was lighter and simpler, often with a more subtle beauty. The designs were asymmetrical, reflecting the shapes of nature.
Although Art Nouveau replaced the Belle Epoque, some of the characteristics of Art Nouveau jewelry were still present during the Belle Epoque. In fact, there was some overlap between the two styles. Some of the Art Nouveau elements, such as the curved lines and floral motifs, continued to be popular throughout the Belle Epoque.
Overall, the development of jewelry from the Belle Epoque to Art Nouveau reflected a change in art and aesthetics. Art Nouveau brought a new perspective on beauty and design that lives on to this day.
Art Nouveau / Art Nouveau 1890-1910
In German usage, Art Nouveau refers to an artistic renewal movement that began around the middle of the 19th century and had a style-forming influence on all areas of art life until around 1910.
Instead of looking to the past for models, artists across Europe made a fresh start, creating never-before-seen forms with themes from the realms of nature and geometry.
The art of Art Nouveau is characterized above all by high quality craftsmanship and sensuality.
The characteristic element of Art Nouveau or “new art,” which emerged around 1890, is the emphasis on ornamentation, strong stylization with a rhythmic exaggeration of forms, and the dominance of the line. The climbing, mysterious plant ornament is the most important decoration of the new art.
Well-known artists included René Lalique, Alfons Mucha, Gustav Klimt and Theodor Fahrner.
The figurative expression of style and time is the elongated female figures, dancers or standing people, wrapped in flowing robes, as well as animals of extreme elegance, such as swans or cranes. Predominantly made in silver and yellow gold, colorful enamel often played an important role, for example to decorate the wings of dragonflies or to line rich flowers.
The style was given the name Jugendstil in Germany after a Munich magazine called “Jugend”.
Art Nouveau always remained a luxury for a small group of buyers, made by a few artists.
But soon after the turn of the century around 1900, the forms led to classical modernism and ART DÈCO.
Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry are two art movements that emerged in the first half of the 20th century and had a significant impact on jewelry making. While Art Nouveau emerged in the 1890s, Art Deco only began in the late 1910s and lasted until the 1930s. A remarkable development in jewelry took place during this period, making both styles extremely different in their focus, technique and design.
Art Nouveau jewelry was characterized by natural shapes and curved lines that reflected the sensuality and flow of nature. It was a reaction to the strict geometry of the Victorian era and was often made from organic materials such as amber, pearls, gemstones and enamels. Art Nouveau jewelry was also often characterized by floral motifs and asymmetrical designs.
In the 1910s, Art Deco jewelry emerged as a reaction to the organic forms of Art Nouveau. Art Deco jewelry was often made from materials such as platinum, diamonds, sapphires, and rubies and featured symmetrical, geometric shapes. Art Deco jewelry was heavily influenced by the aesthetics of the machine age and reflected the technology and advancements of that time.
The techniques used to make jewelry also changed significantly during this period. During the Art Nouveau period, jewelry was often made by hand, while during the Art Deco era, modern machines and tools were used. The use of platinum and diamonds, which became popular during the Art Deco era, allowed designers to create more precise and detailed designs.
Overall, the evolution from Art Nouveau jewelry to Art Deco jewelry was a notable change in the world of jewelry making. The changes in technology and aesthetics reflected changes in society and the world and continue to have a huge impact on jewelry making and design today.
Art Deco 1915-1935
Cool elegance and the greatest luxury defined the jewelry world in the world centers of the Roaring Twenties.
Intoxicated by the speed of the new automobiles, delighted by the pearls of champagne and still dizzy by the view of the new skyscrapers, a very unique modern design language emerged in bright, shiny metal and studded with plenty of sparkling gemstones.
In New York, London and Paris, the large jewelry companies such as Tiffany & Co or Mapping & Webb supplied international clientele from the business, aristocratic and film worlds.
But not only the large companies, but also small independent gold and silversmiths who mastered their craft, designed pieces of previously unseen perfection and freedom.
Art Deco replaced Art Nouveau after the First World War. Decorative arts primarily influence the design of everyday objects. Elegant, clear lines and often geometric
Decor characterizes cars, sophisticated women's fashion and also architecture.
The period between the two world wars is the phase of the Great Depression and the rise of fascism.
The ambivalent era is characterized on the one hand by hardship and existential fear, and on the other hand by wild parties with which the upper class knew how to distract themselves from the impending disaster.
The Second World War interrupted and ended the Art Deco era. At the end of the Second World War there were still stylistic influences of Art Deco even in the early 1950s.
Due to the time limit, the era brought
Art Deco produced comparatively few artistic objects
were mainly created in the large metropolises of the time, which is why these are special rarities.
The Art Deco style is a development in the midst of the general departure of classical modernism, in which the design combination of elegance of form, preciousness of materials, strength of colors and sensuality of the theme was in the foreground.
Art Deco jewelry is an art style that emerged in the 1920s and 1930s and is characterized by its clean lines, geometric shapes and bold colors. This style still has great appeal to many people today and is particularly popular in the jewelry world.
One of the reasons why antique Art Deco jewelry is so popular is because it is a symbol of the elegance and glamor of the 1920s. During this time, jewelry was an important part of fashion and social life. Art Deco jewelry reflects this zeitgeist and stands for luxury, glamor and elegance.
Another reason for the popularity of Art Deco jewelry is the quality craftsmanship and artistry that goes into making each piece. Art Deco jewelry was intricately handcrafted by talented artisans and jewelers. Each piece is unique and demonstrates the attention to detail and ability to create breathtaking pieces of jewelry from precious materials such as diamonds, platinum and gold.
In addition, Art Deco jewelry is also highly sought after due to its timeless beauty and design. The clean lines, geometric shapes and combination of different materials such as diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies create a unique aesthetic that is still considered modern and elegant today.
Finally, collectors also play an important role in the popularity of antique Art Deco jewelry. Many collectors value the history and craftsmanship behind each piece and look for unique and rare jewelry pieces to enrich their collection.
In summary, antique Art Deco jewelry is very popular due to its unique aesthetics, quality craftsmanship and historical significance. Each piece of jewelry is a valuable work of art and a testament to bygone times that continues to inspire and fascinate today.
Vintage from 1945
Unlike contemporary jewelry, which is often influenced by modern technologies and materials, vintage jewelry is often handmade and made from high-quality materials such as gold, silver, gemstones, pearls and enamel.
Vintage jewelry is often viewed as a form of investment because they are rare, high-quality pieces that increase in value over time.
There are many people who see vintage jewelry as a way to express their personality and style. There are many unique pieces that can no longer be found today, making them true collector's items.
Another advantage of vintage jewelry is that it is often more sustainable than modern jewelry because it has already been made and does not cause the same environmental impact as making new jewelry.
Overall, vintage jewelry offers a unique opportunity to delve into the past and wear pieces that are timeless and of high quality.
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Biedermeier 1815-1848
The Biedermeier era discovered nature after the cool severity of classicism.
Contrasting, free forms enliven the designs of the time and friendship and souvenir jewelry in particular achieved widespread popularity.
After the Napoleonic War in 1815, precious metals were scarce, so materials such as tombac, horn, hair and coral were used with great skill.
The goldsmiths developed jewelry with so-called foam gold. With foam gold, goldsmiths were able to save material by making brooches, necklaces and bracelets from thin sheet gold and then filling them with plaster or resin to give the pieces the necessary stability and weight.
The Biedermeier period can be classified in cultural history between the Congress of Vienna in 1815 and the bourgeois revolution in 1848.
As a countermovement to the victory over Napoleon, a new interest in their own history and local traditions arose in the independent countries. This can also be observed in jewelry.
The strict, prevailing classicism is relaxed and local nature, such as oak leaves or roses, is included and reproduced in the design.
Materials from the homeland are also preferred, such as Bohemian garnet as the preferred stone of the middle class in Austria and other German-speaking countries.
Coral jewelry is also enjoying unprecedented popularity in Italy. In Great Britain, for example, there is a fashion with turquoise stones from their own colonies.
You retreat into your private sphere, the immediate surroundings are the focus of the Biedermeier period.
Historicism 1840-1890
In the years before 1850 there was a dominant style in decorative arts, the design and forms of which changed only slowly.
In the years that followed, up until the turn of the century around 1900, the change in fashions increased suddenly.
In order to provide new designs, every previous era in art history was used as a model.
This resulted in new works of art with stylistic elements from antiquity to rococo.
People experienced unprecedented change in the second half of the 19th century.
The economy and science accelerated extremely quickly thanks to new discoveries, means of transport and communication, and shattered the usual certainties about the way the world ran.
Looking back over the past years meant security. In addition, industrialization, the railway and the telegraph increased speed.
The first pieces of jewelry in medieval shapes were already created in the Biedemeier era, accompanied by the rediscovery of the Gothic style.
Jewels in Neo-Renaissance styles followed as an expression of civic pride oriented towards the Italian city republics.
As a result, this triggered mass production of Renaissance forms.
In Italy, goldsmiths created jewelry with neo-Etruscan shapes, such as antique cameos or earrings.
Jewelry with baroque and rococo elements also quickly became a sales success.
They revived the courtly splendor of the past 18th century.
At the end of the century, jewelry in the Baroque and Rococo styles followed, which revived the courtly splendor of the previous 18th century.
Historicism offers a rich variety of forms and details and is probably the history-loving era between tradition and modernity.
Victorian era 1837-1901
The Victorian style is the collective name for the historicizing style tendencies during the reign of the English Queen Victoria from 1837-1901 and is comparable to German historicism or the founding style.
Queen Victoria of England, who gave the style its name, ruled the country for over 60 years and had a significant influence on an entire era.
This period also marked Great Britain's economic rise to become the leading economic and world power at the end of the 19th century.
During the Victorian Era, trade and industry, as well as arts and literature, flourished.
The “Victorian Era” style describes English jewelry as cheerful, imaginative and typically British.
Queen Victoria was very emotional, which is why Victorian jewelry from Great Britain, in addition to the always high-quality workmanship of manufactured goods, is often characterized by romantic and very decorative ornamented shapes and motifs.
Her fairytale romance and a magnificent royal wedding in 1840 to Prince Albert were particularly beneficial for English jewelry production.
The goldsmiths' own designs continued to gain in independence in the second half of the 19th century.
Beautiful engravings decorate medallions and bracelets, often in heart shapes. A great fondness for enamel developed, so numerous brooches, necklaces and rings in flower and leaf shapes were covered with it.
From 1876, Queen Victoria also bore the title “Empress of India”. From this point on, the door was open for the British Empire to bring precious gemstones from the Indian subcontinent to England via trade routes.
Sapphires, emeralds, rubies, turquoise and even large diamonds came to England by sea. Once on the island, the precious gemstones were eagerly processed into wonderful pieces of jewelry by goldsmiths in London and other major cities in England.
Finally, rich yellow gold remains in use in England longer than in mainland Europe.
At the turn of the century, Art Nouveau designs were very popular.
Delicate gemstones and pearls in radiant yellow gold were still being manufactured long after 1900.
Around 1880 a new trend emerged exclusively in Great Britain:
“Novelty Jewellery”. Brooches with cheerful animal motifs such as bees, flies, butterflies, swallows, owls or even automotive and sports motifs such as golf clubs etc. were made as pieces of jewelry and met with great enthusiasm in Great Britain.
Then as now, Victorian jewelry, which shaped an entire era, was very popular.
Belle Epoque 1871-1914
The Belle Epoque was a period of peace and prosperity in Europe that lasted from around 1871 until the outbreak of World War I in 1914. During this time, jewelry making experienced a heyday characterized by elegance and opulence. Jewelry was often decorated with gemstones, diamonds, and pearls and was made from materials such as gold and platinum.
However, in the late 19th century and early 20th century, a new art movement emerged - Art Nouveau. Art Nouveau was a reaction to the strict geometry and lack of ornament of the Victorian era and was inspired by nature. Art Nouveau jewelry was characterized by organic shapes, curved lines and floral motifs. The materials were often opal, pearls and enamel, and the technique of jewelry making was often done by hand.
During the Belle Epoque, designs tended to be symmetrical and stylized, with floral motifs and opulent diamonds and gemstones. Jewelry was often heavy and exaggerated and was worn by a wealthy elite. Art Nouveau, on the other hand, was an art form for the people and the jewelry was lighter and simpler, often with a more subtle beauty. The designs were asymmetrical, reflecting the shapes of nature.
Although Art Nouveau replaced the Belle Epoque, some of the characteristics of Art Nouveau jewelry were still present during the Belle Epoque. In fact, there was some overlap between the two styles. Some of the Art Nouveau elements, such as the curved lines and floral motifs, continued to be popular throughout the Belle Epoque.
Overall, the development of jewelry from the Belle Epoque to Art Nouveau reflected a change in art and aesthetics. Art Nouveau brought a new perspective on beauty and design that lives on to this day.
Art Nouveau / Art Nouveau 1890-1910
In German usage, Art Nouveau refers to an artistic renewal movement that began around the middle of the 19th century and had a style-forming influence on all areas of art life until around 1910.
Instead of looking to the past for models, artists across Europe made a fresh start, creating never-before-seen forms with themes from the realms of nature and geometry.
The art of Art Nouveau is characterized above all by high quality craftsmanship and sensuality.
The characteristic element of Art Nouveau or “new art,” which emerged around 1890, is the emphasis on ornamentation, strong stylization with a rhythmic exaggeration of forms, and the dominance of the line. The climbing, mysterious plant ornament is the most important decoration of the new art.
Well-known artists included René Lalique, Alfons Mucha, Gustav Klimt and Theodor Fahrner.
The figurative expression of style and time is the elongated female figures, dancers or standing people, wrapped in flowing robes, as well as animals of extreme elegance, such as swans or cranes. Predominantly made in silver and yellow gold, colorful enamel often played an important role, for example to decorate the wings of dragonflies or to line rich flowers.
The style was given the name Jugendstil in Germany after a Munich magazine called “Jugend”.
Art Nouveau always remained a luxury for a small group of buyers, made by a few artists.
But soon after the turn of the century around 1900, the forms led to classical modernism and ART DÈCO.
Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry are two art movements that emerged in the first half of the 20th century and had a significant impact on jewelry making. While Art Nouveau emerged in the 1890s, Art Deco only began in the late 1910s and lasted until the 1930s. A remarkable development in jewelry took place during this period, making both styles extremely different in their focus, technique and design.
Art Nouveau jewelry was characterized by natural shapes and curved lines that reflected the sensuality and flow of nature. It was a reaction to the strict geometry of the Victorian era and was often made from organic materials such as amber, pearls, gemstones and enamels. Art Nouveau jewelry was also often characterized by floral motifs and asymmetrical designs.
In the 1910s, Art Deco jewelry emerged as a reaction to the organic forms of Art Nouveau. Art Deco jewelry was often made from materials such as platinum, diamonds, sapphires, and rubies and featured symmetrical, geometric shapes. Art Deco jewelry was heavily influenced by the aesthetics of the machine age and reflected the technology and advancements of that time.
The techniques used to make jewelry also changed significantly during this period. During the Art Nouveau period, jewelry was often made by hand, while during the Art Deco era, modern machines and tools were used. The use of platinum and diamonds, which became popular during the Art Deco era, allowed designers to create more precise and detailed designs.
Overall, the evolution from Art Nouveau jewelry to Art Deco jewelry was a notable change in the world of jewelry making. The changes in technology and aesthetics reflected changes in society and the world and continue to have a huge impact on jewelry making and design today.
Art Deco 1915-1935
Cool elegance and the greatest luxury defined the jewelry world in the world centers of the Roaring Twenties.
Intoxicated by the speed of the new automobiles, delighted by the pearls of champagne and still dizzy by the view of the new skyscrapers, a very unique modern design language emerged in bright, shiny metal and studded with plenty of sparkling gemstones.
In New York, London and Paris, the large jewelry companies such as Tiffany & Co or Mapping & Webb supplied international clientele from the business, aristocratic and film worlds.
But not only the large companies, but also small independent gold and silversmiths who mastered their craft, designed pieces of previously unseen perfection and freedom.
Art Deco replaced Art Nouveau after the First World War. Decorative arts primarily influence the design of everyday objects. Elegant, clear lines and often geometric
Decor characterizes cars, sophisticated women's fashion and also architecture.
The period between the two world wars is the phase of the Great Depression and the rise of fascism.
The ambivalent era is characterized on the one hand by hardship and existential fear, and on the other hand by wild parties with which the upper class knew how to distract themselves from the impending disaster.
The Second World War interrupted and ended the Art Deco era. At the end of the Second World War there were still stylistic influences of Art Deco even in the early 1950s.
Due to the time limit, the era brought
Art Deco produced comparatively few artistic objects
were mainly created in the large metropolises of the time, which is why these are special rarities.
The Art Deco style is a development in the midst of the general departure of classical modernism, in which the design combination of elegance of form, preciousness of materials, strength of colors and sensuality of the theme was in the foreground.
Art Deco jewelry is an art style that emerged in the 1920s and 1930s and is characterized by its clean lines, geometric shapes and bold colors. This style still has great appeal to many people today and is particularly popular in the jewelry world.
One of the reasons why antique Art Deco jewelry is so popular is because it is a symbol of the elegance and glamor of the 1920s. During this time, jewelry was an important part of fashion and social life. Art Deco jewelry reflects this zeitgeist and stands for luxury, glamor and elegance.
Another reason for the popularity of Art Deco jewelry is the quality craftsmanship and artistry that goes into making each piece. Art Deco jewelry was intricately handcrafted by talented artisans and jewelers. Each piece is unique and demonstrates the attention to detail and ability to create breathtaking pieces of jewelry from precious materials such as diamonds, platinum and gold.
In addition, Art Deco jewelry is also highly sought after due to its timeless beauty and design. The clean lines, geometric shapes and combination of different materials such as diamonds, sapphires, emeralds and rubies create a unique aesthetic that is still considered modern and elegant today.
Finally, collectors also play an important role in the popularity of antique Art Deco jewelry. Many collectors value the history and craftsmanship behind each piece and look for unique and rare jewelry pieces to enrich their collection.
In summary, antique Art Deco jewelry is very popular due to its unique aesthetics, quality craftsmanship and historical significance. Each piece of jewelry is a valuable work of art and a testament to bygone times that continues to inspire and fascinate today.
Vintage from 1945
Unlike contemporary jewelry, which is often influenced by modern technologies and materials, vintage jewelry is often handmade and made from high-quality materials such as gold, silver, gemstones, pearls and enamel.
Vintage jewelry is often viewed as a form of investment because they are rare, high-quality pieces that increase in value over time.
There are many people who see vintage jewelry as a way to express their personality and style. There are many unique pieces that can no longer be found today, making them true collector's items.
Another advantage of vintage jewelry is that it is often more sustainable than modern jewelry because it has already been made and does not cause the same environmental impact as making new jewelry.
Overall, vintage jewelry offers a unique opportunity to delve into the past and wear pieces that are timeless and of high quality.
